
We are Tania and Gaetano, two expats who moved our families to Spain for new adventures. We both moved here from the US, Tania (originally from the UK) in 2020, with her husband and daughter from Northern Virginia, and Gaetano in 2023 with his two daughters from Los Angeles. We all met in Valencia and got along incredibly well, but while we cracked each other up discussing our fun times adjusting to Spain, there were quite a few eye-rolls from our girls (tweens and teenagers anyone!). In an effort to give our daughters a little break we thought what the heck, let’s share our experiences with unsuspecting strangers instead. This podcast came to life and we hope you enjoy the pitfalls and joys of our experiences - we all have!
AI generated, please excuse any errors!
Transcript
0:00
[Music]
0:04
Welcome to a Spain. Poco a poco. Buenos
0:07
das Tanya.
0:08
Buenos diaz. Um today we are going to
0:11
talk about Ernest Hemingway. And this is
0:15
kind of exciting because I think a lot
0:17
of people think of him, they think of I
0:19
mean obviously his writing but Cuba,
0:21
Paris, all the things that he did. But
0:23
he was very big in Spain. He loved Spain
0:27
and he even called it the last good
0:30
country left. So, we're going to delve
0:31
into sort of his life in Spain, you
0:35
know, some other things too, but most
0:36
predominantly his life in Spain and and
0:38
how that inspired his writing.
0:40
Yes. I mean, he is I mean, I think I I
0:42
know him for for his his love of Spain
0:45
and kind of it his love of the the ver
0:48
viralent nature, the the machismo of
0:52
Spain, right? like that he lived a hard
0:55
life, right? He lived a kind of a hard
0:57
drinking, party hard. Running with the
1:00
Bulls is up his alley, right? So,
1:03
yeah, I think a lot of that I mean
1:05
definitely he's he's renowned for his
1:07
excessive drinking. I think that um you
1:11
know we that's definitely part of it and
1:13
but yes the the all the bull fighting
1:16
and all this you know and he he was part
1:18
of the not part of but he he was in
1:21
Spain during the civil war being a
1:23
correspondent so you know that he he
1:25
wasn't shying away from um from
1:28
everything exciting. He was definitely
1:30
not sitting I mean he was probably
1:32
sitting on the beach here too but there
1:33
was a lot going on in his life. So, um,
1:35
he was born in 1899 in Oak Park,
1:39
Illinois. Um, but he was also, um, he
1:43
was a Red Cross ambulance driver in
1:44
Italy during World War I. Um, he served
1:47
in a as a war correspondent
1:50
in World War II and he won a bronze star
1:53
for bringing the realities of war to
1:55
readers in in World War from World War
1:57
II. And over his life, he wrote seven
2:00
novels, six short stories, collections,
2:02
and two non-fiction works. So, not a
2:05
small amount of stuff going on.
2:06
No. I mean I mean you can't say he was a
2:08
failure. That's for sure.
2:10
No.
2:11
And and to to top off his list of
2:14
failures, he also won a Nobel Prize. I
2:16
mean the man nothing going for him, you
2:19
know.
2:20
Yeah. I mean really quite a lot. I think
2:23
I just there's one thing that I that I
2:25
did find during his um during
2:27
researching him which I think was very
2:29
interesting and absolutely horrifying
2:31
really. He had so many injuries in his
2:34
life and I think that he had a he had a
2:38
car crash in London during World War II.
2:40
He had a motorbike accident in Normandy.
2:42
He had two plane crashes in Africa in
2:44
1954. He was a boxer and a football
2:47
player as a kid. He was in a motor blast
2:50
in Italy during World War I. And he had
2:51
a concussion when he fell off his boat.
2:53
So it and he also and his family and
2:56
everything there was a lot of history of
2:58
mental illness of various um of various
3:01
different types of mental illnesses but
3:02
it's also kind of thought that maybe he
3:06
um also suffered from CTE which we hear
3:08
a lot about now which is you know
3:10
chronic traumatic and not
3:12
that's a long word and andopathy
3:15
or whatever.
3:16
It's the football thing. It's what the
3:17
football thing
3:18
it's the football thing. Yes. Um so
3:20
clearly when you see all the things all
3:21
the injuries that he had to his head
3:24
plus if you add on to that the you know
3:26
the mental illness that ran his family
3:28
and and and rather a very sad amount of
3:32
um suicides in his family history and
3:34
him included which is how he died. his
3:37
alcohol, his alcoholism and all those
3:39
things kind of maybe go together and
3:42
also his creativity and all the books
3:44
that he wrote prolifically like was all
3:48
combined in this night in this soup of
3:50
everything that happened during his
3:51
life. Right. I mean,
3:54
it's a lot. I mean, and you look at
3:55
those injuries, you look at what he
3:57
experienced and the and the mentalis, it
3:59
makes sense that he was such a drinker
4:02
as well, right? I mean, that was that
4:04
was the therapy of of a manly man back
4:07
in the day, right? That was
4:09
Yes. And I think these days the the
4:11
glorification of alcoholism in this
4:13
regard I think is is kind of taking it's
4:16
kind of not quite as glorified now when
4:18
people are looking at how his life was
4:20
and what his family history was. So I
4:23
think that maybe the glorification of
4:25
the alcoholism that he had
4:27
is now not maybe a major part of what
4:29
people think about him. And we'll as we
4:32
get into why Spain, you know, um I think
4:35
we'll see a lot more richness to his
4:38
life than just the fact that he wrote
4:39
and was an alcoholic and people, you
4:41
know, drinking beers on the beach. Like,
4:43
so let's dive into
4:45
drink and suicide and mental illness,
4:47
right? He
4:48
Exactly. Yes.
4:50
I mean, what's interesting about him is
4:52
is the love that he had for Spain,
4:54
right? So, he had visited a few times.
4:56
Um the the first time he visited was in
4:59
the the mid 1920s and then he came back
5:02
in the 30s for the the during the
5:04
Spanish Civil War and wrote about that
5:07
for newspapers for like the kind of the
5:11
AP of the day. Um I forget what it was
5:13
called like the national I don't know
5:16
some
5:17
long thing. Do you remember what it was
5:19
called?
5:20
Some the North American newspaper
5:23
alliance.
5:23
There you go. just rolls off the tongue
5:26
and
5:27
it does.
5:29
I think it's also called the NA I think.
5:31
Nana. He wrote for Nana.
5:33
Nana. I don't know.
5:36
That's what it was called. Yes. And he
5:37
was supporting the Republicans against
5:40
Franco. And he also wrote for the
5:42
Chicago for Chicago magazine called Ken,
5:46
which was a liberal publication. Um, so
5:48
that was what that's what he was doing
5:50
here in Spain during that time, writing
5:52
for papers back in the States,
5:54
being Yeah. Tell telling the story of
5:56
what's going on, right? Um,
5:58
yeah.
5:58
So, the first time he visited was in
6:00
1923, and he he loved the Spain, you the
6:03
culture of Spain, obviously the bull
6:05
fights. We know him for exalting the
6:08
running of the bulls, right? I think
6:09
he's kind of what put the running of the
6:11
bulls on the map for the world, right? I
6:13
mean, it's because of him that that
6:15
Pamplona has the tourists it gets now. I
6:17
think.
6:18
Yeah. I mean, I think that I think if
6:20
you can imagine coming from America and
6:22
coming to see a bull fight and the
6:23
running of the bulls, I can see how that
6:25
would be incredibly exciting. Yes. For
6:28
somebody that enjoyed that type of
6:30
thing. And he was captivated by the
6:32
intensity of it and also the the
6:35
resilience and the atmosphere and the
6:37
people. And at that point, he had sort
6:40
of declared Spain his spiritual home.
6:43
And I think he just loved every aspect
6:46
of Spain. And it was just a very
6:48
different experience for him and it was
6:49
a very inspiring um place for him to be
6:52
as a writer.
6:54
And I think two of his books are are set
6:56
in Spain right there. That's that that's
6:59
where his inspiration comes from like
7:01
The Sun Alto Rises and For Whom the Bell
7:03
Tolls. I I had to I had to read For Whom
7:06
the Bell Tolls um in high school and
7:08
don't ask me
7:11
details, but I remember it was about the
7:12
Spanish Civil War and I had to read it.
7:16
Well, and from from my port for my part
7:18
in England when I was growing up for
7:20
whom the bell tolls was played on the
7:23
movie was played on the BBC like I don't
7:26
know every every other week or
7:28
something. It was one of my father's
7:29
favorite movies. It was an Ingred Burman
7:31
Gary Cooper movie and it was just and my
7:34
dad loved it. So, I have seen that movie
7:36
probably about a thousand times because
7:38
back in the day, in case there's any
7:40
young guys listening here, I mean, we
7:42
had four channels. So, whatever was
7:44
playing, you watched
7:46
and and there was a rotation, right?
7:48
There was
7:49
Yes, it was a rotation, but it was the
7:50
same, right? So, if if For whom the
7:53
bells, if it was if that was one of the
7:54
movies and that was coming on probably
7:56
once a month or something. Um, and that
7:58
was definitely one of them based on the
8:00
book obviously.
8:01
So, we'll talk about should we talk a
8:03
little bit about these books? So there
8:04
was the sun also rises, right? So a
8:07
significant portion of this story is
8:09
about the the running of the bulls, the
8:11
fiesta uh descent for men in Bmplona. Uh
8:15
and it talks about the bull fights and
8:16
the festival and all of that.
8:18
Yeah. And that was inspired by his first
8:20
trip. Um so I think when he had his
8:23
first trip, that was the book that sort
8:25
of started coming out of that and he was
8:28
writing that in Valencia. He started
8:30
writing it at the hotel reign of
8:31
Victoria.
8:32
I had no idea about that. So every time
8:34
I walk by that hotel now I know
8:36
you can think of him and then he wasn't
8:38
just he wasn't that I mean he wasn't
8:40
just interested in the bull fighting he
8:42
was literally following a matador so you
8:46
know these matadors were also and I
8:48
don't know if they still are cuz I don't
8:50
follow it they they were famous they
8:52
were like very very wellknown and he was
8:55
not just following going to bull fights
8:57
he would be following a matador around
8:58
the bull fights that that person was
9:00
doing kayatano
9:02
yes
9:02
odonette Yeah. Yes. What's your name?
9:06
That is the Spanish spelling of my name.
9:09
I am now going to start calling you
9:10
Kayatano.
9:13
Well, I Side note, that is So that's the
9:16
transliteration of my name. So that's
9:18
exactly how you pronounce my name.
9:20
Oh my gosh. Well, there we go. So we'll
9:21
stop calling you that. And but you are
9:23
not a mass from the 1920s, right?
9:25
I am not. Or from the 2020s. I
9:29
just checking. All right. And then he
9:31
had death in the afternoon which was
9:33
1932 and this was a non-fiction work
9:36
which again delves into the world of
9:38
bull fighting and Spanish history
9:41
rituals and all the significance of all
9:43
of this. So that's more of a that's more
9:44
just a non-fiction work where he was
9:46
just really interested in in writing
9:48
about all of that
9:49
about life in Spain. And if he was alive
9:51
we could interview him for our show cuz
9:53
he seems like an expert.
9:55
He clearly knows a lot about it. And
9:57
then he did the dangerous summer and
9:59
this book was actually published after
10:01
his death. Um but that also focused on
10:03
the intense bull fighting rivalry
10:05
between Luis Miguel Doming Domingan and
10:09
Antonio Ordiness with this and in 1959.
10:13
So that was also just set against the
10:15
backdrop of Spain. So that was something
10:16
that was published later. And then the
10:19
last one
10:20
was a play um called the fifth column
10:23
and it was and he wrote this during the
10:25
Spanish Civil War and it explores the
10:27
tensions and the conflicts of the era of
10:30
the era and it kind of like reflecting
10:33
his personal account and his experiences
10:35
as a correspondent during during the
10:37
Spanish Civil War.
10:39
And those were the those were the
10:40
specific ones that really are that
10:42
really are about Spain. But I think I
10:44
think Spain overall was was a huge muse
10:46
for him. So, um, it was not necessarily
10:50
other things that he wrote didn't have
10:52
the inspiration from Spain as well, but
10:54
those are the ones that are really
10:54
specifically about it.
10:56
And I think we have the hidden influence
10:59
of Valencia because since we're in
11:00
Valencia, let's kind of jump to, you
11:03
know, he was all over Spain. He was in
11:05
Madrid. He was, you know, in different
11:07
parts of Spain, obviously. But if you if
11:09
you are in Valencia here, you will see
11:12
his name a lot and you'll hear about him
11:13
a lot because he was he was around here
11:16
living and hanging out.
11:18
And you know, I didn't really notice I
11:20
did not know about how much Valencia
11:23
that he was involved in the Valencian
11:25
life. Like I had always just associated
11:27
him with Pamplona like that was kind of
11:30
you know I mean that I think most people
11:31
do, right? So I didn't know he had
11:34
visited all these places in in in
11:37
Valencia. So I mean
11:39
yeah so we went to La Pepika restaurant
11:42
which is down by the beach and they are
11:44
very proud of the history they have with
11:46
Hemingway there. He obviously spent a
11:49
lot of time drinking down there
11:52
down there.
11:53
And back the the beach back then was
11:55
very different. If you if you've seen
11:56
sort of pictures of European beaches or
11:58
maybe even New England beaches back in
12:01
sort of like the 20s and 30s, you'll
12:02
kind of have this image of these little
12:04
huts and tents that are on the beach
12:06
that everyone can um change in. So back
12:08
then the beach it was didn't have these
12:10
big buildings and all this stuff. It was
12:11
little restaurants with these little
12:13
huts on the beach. It was this very
12:14
cute, very remote sort of place. And
12:17
that was the that was the Valencia Beach
12:19
that Hemingway was hanging out in and
12:21
and getting inspiration and drinking and
12:23
eating.
12:23
And back then it wasn't even the
12:24
Valencian beach. It was a town called
12:26
Cabanol, right? So, it wasn't even
12:28
Well, there you go. Exactly. Wasn't even
12:29
connected. But, we actually had a very I
12:32
would I I think it's We had a nice
12:33
paella there. It with some nice little
12:35
appetizers that little tappers that went
12:37
with it. I I would highly recommend that
12:39
as a little spot to go as a tourist or
12:41
take some friends. If you have friends
12:43
in town, um definitely book.
12:45
It's a It's a very large It's quite a
12:47
large restaurant, but it still you need
12:49
to book for it. Obviously, it's right on
12:50
the beach. And then he also visit this
12:53
place which is now called Cappuccino
12:55
Valencia which is in the old town which
12:58
during his time was called Cafe Eliglo
13:00
Seaglo.
13:02
Mhm.
13:03
Capo.
13:03
Um so he he is rumored to have gone
13:07
there a lot as well.
13:09
Okay. They they must have they must have
13:12
also been serving beer I would imagine.
13:14
And he also loved fires. Um, and he, as
13:18
we talked about before, the Fiery
13:20
Festival that we all know and love here,
13:23
absolutely fits with his very dangerous
13:26
lifestyle.
13:29
And who knows what it was like back
13:30
then, too. Um, and they called it that
13:34
he loved it for its rebirth through
13:36
destructive symbolism, which I can sort
13:38
of see. I can totally see that.
13:41
I mean, and that is the thing. We've
13:42
talked about it before and I have
13:43
Spanish friends that talk about all the
13:45
fires and why we have all these
13:47
fireworks and he burn stuff on all the
13:49
not just fires, these other festivals. I
13:51
love that that the the rebirth through
13:53
fire and they love that here. So it's
13:56
absolutely and then he did finally come
13:59
to Spain um in 1959 1960 and he covered
14:04
bull fighting for Life magazine. this
14:07
was the last time that he was in Spain.
14:10
Um, obviously because he he died in
14:12
1961, but he's he still
14:15
I mean he was living back in America at
14:17
that time, but he still called Spain the
14:20
country that he loved the most. Maybe
14:22
next to America. I mean, I don't know
14:24
which one would come first, but
14:25
definitely had a passion for definitely
14:27
had a passion for Spain.
14:28
And I can see why. So do I.
14:31
I mean, we all that's why we're all here
14:33
because we all have a passion for Spain.
14:34
So, we can we can align we can align
14:36
with him there, I think.
14:38
I mean, it's making me want to, you
14:39
know, reread these books now that I'm
14:41
here. I mean, it would be nice to to go
14:43
back um and revisit these these writings
14:47
now that my feet are on the ground.
14:48
Absolutely. Right.
14:49
Yeah. And I think the the in
14:51
specifically because a lot of those
14:53
works were in a very tumultu time in
14:56
Spain's history. I think the, you know,
14:58
he he was really bringing back the the
15:02
vitality of Spain and its people even
15:05
within these tragedies and this time
15:07
that was, you know, not the best of
15:10
times, you know. So, I think that the
15:12
books, I'm sure, kind of show since he
15:15
loves Spain so much, show a lot of um
15:18
passion for not just Spain, but also the
15:20
people and how everyone deals with that.
15:22
Yeah,
15:23
it was a m It was his muse.
15:24
It was his muse.
15:27
and our muse now, too.
15:29
Absolutely. So, back to reading
15:30
Hemingway.
15:31
Back to Hemingway.
15:32
All right, that's that's what we have
15:33
for Hemingway. I hope you all enjoyed
15:36
our little Poco Poco about his life
15:38
here.
15:38
Until until the next Poco Poco,
15:45
thank you for listening to us Poco Poco.
15:47
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15:49
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16:13
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16:23
Till the next episode.
16:25
Bye.
16:27
[Music]
